Bluffer's Guide to NY, London, Milan and Paris SS17

by Thea Basiliou October 07, 2016

backstage at jw anderson

Backstage at JW Anderson, photo by Sonny Vandevelde at

We have just come to the end of another fashion week journey from the four major cities New York, London, Milan and Paris.

Did you get a chance to look? I often start out with good intentions, scanning everyday and then lose momentum. I guess that it depends on the season and the last few seasons have felt a little... dull? Maybe the minimalism dragged on for too long? 

Well it has definitely been pushed aside this season in favour of very busy collections.

Sure, I didn't look through ALL of them but I gave it a good go.

While I was in the zone, I thought I'd make use of the time by pulling out my favourite looks from these shows and throwing them at you in one mighty swoop.

I have limited it to images of collections that I thought bought something new to the table, that felt progressive and right for now.

There are a few newer names amongst the established ones and there are quite a few new names out there making great statements but I'm a little hard to please. I find it hard to be surprised.

I would have loved to  have included Phlemuns by James Flemons in this line-up as he has an incredible energy and making great work. He is still working sporadically and not to the season. Also Claire Barrow who has decided to work off the schedule. It's difficult creatively and financially for designers to work to the schedule particularly when they are still quite a small brand.

So here you go. It's either a nice little recap of the season or a bluffer's guide to SS17...

Most of the collections were quite modest favouring the midi and maxi lengths and loads of layers.

backstage at marques almeida

Backstage at Marques ' Almeida, photo from


Even the shoes are quite covered with mostly closed toes and plenty of boots.

There is an incredible array of colour with the onset of marigold and orange.

The rich tans and russets have increased with the noticeable return of browns.


Bold red and bright blue , more pink (again) and pastels in lemon, lilac and mint.

Neutrals are in the way of white, camel and black with grey on the back burner. 

Black and white stripes.

Metallic. Again.

The textiles are absolutely out of control with wild craft in patchwork and embroidery, incredible knits and weaving, dyeing, marbling, ombre and quilting.

Screen prints as opposed to digital.

Ruffles. Millions of them. Volume.

Pleating. Again and all over.

Shoulders are wide.

zoe sidel at ny fashion week

Zoe Sidel at New York Fashion Week, photo by Phil Oh for


Costume drama most noticeably in the return of the pirate shirt. I have been waiting 25 for this one! This look includes lots of eyelet lacing in various forms and exaggerated sleeves.

Western wear in it's most obvious form with yokes, embroidery and fringing.

Lingerie. Another early 90's ghost comes back in full force. The slip dress/dressing has increased momentum from this season so you can check this one as a staple for a while.

I hadn't been awaiting the return of the cargo pocket but it's here anyway and it's on everything and in multiples like excess baggage.

The new harem pant plus the flare, the wide leg pant and the pyjama pant still enjoying their time.

Denim, always.

The statement earring(s)

I'm sure that you have your own take on everything but hope that you enjoy 

these photos...






Acne Studios, Paris

acne ss17



awake ss17

awake ss17

Balenciaga, Paris

balenciaga ss17

Barragan, NY


Celine, Paris


Creatures of the Wind, NY

creatures of the wind ss17

Dilara Findikoglu, London

dilara findikoglu

Eckhaus Latta, NY

eckhaus latta ss17

Faustein Steinmetz, London

faustein steinmetz

Gucci, Milan

gucci ss17

Gypsy Sport, NY

gypsy sport ss17

Hillier Bartley, London

hillier bartley ss17

Jacquemus, Paris

jacquemus ss17

J.W. Anderson, London

jw anderson ss17

jw anderson ss17

Lemaire, Paris

lemaire ss17

Loewe, Paris

loewe ss17

LRS Studio, NY

lrs studio ss17

Marques ' Almeida, London

marques almeida ss17

marques almeida ss17

Maison Margiela, Paris


margiela ss17

Marni, Milan

marni ss17

McQueen, London

mcqueen ss17

Molly Goddard, London

molly goddard ss17

Preen, London

preen ss17

Rejina Pyo, London

rejina pyo

Vejas, NY

vejas ss17

Vika Gazinskaya, Paris

vika gazinskaya ss17

vika gazinskaya ss17




All photos via The Business of Fashion apart from:

Rejina Pyo at

Vika Gazinskaya and A.W.A.K.E at

LRS Studio at

Barragan at

Vejas at

Thea X


Thea Basiliou
Thea Basiliou