The Men's Fall 17 Shows in a (chest) Nutshell
Hi Everyone,
These were my favourite looks from the recent Men's Fall 17 Collections.
I'm sure that I have probably accidentally left out someone that I should have included here but the internet is too big and there are too many collections to take in.
Designers are also mixing things up, some showing on their own time or showing with womenswear but I have generally only included traditional men's collections as such, from the main fashion week circuit.
The men's shows rolled straight in the women's so I have been distracted but I finally put everything together that I looked at and made some notes...
TEXTILES
Corduroy
The Happy Mondays. Baggy. Brown. Cord (image courtesy of last.fm)
Cord hasn't made a full come back since the 1990's with Manchester (baggies and overalls) and 70's revival (flares) and it's been edging it's way in and has been present in women's wear but...this is it.
It was in (almost) every collection and makes a great pairing with other textured winter fabrics. It also makes a great change from denim which is obviously a perennial but needs a rethink.
Velvet
Jarvis Cocker. Always inspiring.
Amazing combination of velvet and stripes.
(photo courtesy of The Guardian)
Velvet has certainly been around in women's wear already making it to the high street with the 90's revival but it is refreshing to see it in menswear and done well. Sure there are also some 90's versions of it (crushed / leggings / crop tops) but the immaculate trousers and coating shown this season were especially sublime.
(Vertical) Stripes
Sunnei
Prince of Wales and Houndstooth
E. Tautz
They are traditional menswear fabrics but it is wonderful to see them in some NOW silhouettes, with a new eye.
Quilting
Craig Green
Used not in traditional bomber jackets but in bigger, boxy shapes and in ways to add fullness and volume.
COLOURS
Lemaire
Tonal dressing is the clear message.
Brown, brown, brown and every shade of brown! Beautiful warm colours like caramel and toffee, paprika, khaki, tan and taupe.
The biggest highlight colour was Yellow or the Golden Milky as I'm calling it. The Tumeric Latte effect worked it's magic from Lemons through to bright Sunshine Yellow.
SILHOUETTES AND STYLES
BIG at Balenciaga
There was hardly a skinny to be seen. The wide, soft leg trouser was probably the biggest movement across the collections but even if they are cropped they are wide.
The pleated pant and the double breasted jacket.
The 3/4 coat.
The long coat.
Pyjama shirting and soft, slouchy pyjama style layering .
Tailored military.
Sportswear mixed with tailoring.
The pumped up shoe. The white sneaker continues in a bigger form...
Acne Studios
An ode to heroes in art history transpired in to these beautiful tonal looks in muted colours. I love the satin stripe shirts and the spectacular oversized collars through out the collection.
A.P.C.
What a cutie. Almost like portraits from a 1960's year book. I really like how these classic vintage looks are so neat, so tailored and finished. The beige double denim is supreme.
A.W.A.K.E.
This is Natalia Alaverdian's first menswear collection which she showed with some women's pre-fall. Even though I see flickers of J.W. Anderson and Raf Simons, I really love what she is doing as the moment and thought it was a fantastic men's debut. The oversized silhouettes in beautiful wools, wool plaids, tapestries, corduroy and leather teamed with striped shirting and finished with hand carved wooden buttons and some of her kooky octopus prints. I also love the printed waffle as a kind of man shawl.
Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia
I'm not a committed DG fan but I do admire the conversation that he has created and I actually prefer his work at Balenciaga than at Vetements. These figures cut quite a powerful yet cartoonish image. A masculine "Working Girl" sprung to mind. The collection also featured some expected sportswear inspired pieces but it was these oversized coats and jackets teamed with soft, wide leg trousers, overblown sneakers and fabulous leather bags that bought it home for me.
Cedric Charlier
Established for 5 years, this was Cedric's debut men's wear show which he showed alongside his women's wear fall collection and the two collections speak a similar language of contemporary design pieces that are beautifully made and wearable. How gorgeous is the peach velvet suit? A great colour palette of great wardrobe pieces.
Craig Green
I'm a big Craig Green fan and he has not disappointed again with this collection of druid like looks in a sophisticated tonal colour palette. Incredible textiles of velvet and wool, quilted, tied, laced and gathered. A lot of historic references incorporated without overtaking the outcome. Amazing.
E Tautz
Designer Patrick Grant favoured the oversized silhouette but made it easy, everyday in luxurious fabrics and a delicious, warm, colour palette.
Feng Chen Wang
Feng Chen Wang graduated from London's Royal College of Art in 2015 she has already shown in NY for VFiles Runway, then the following season at Milk Studios. In 2016 the brand was nominated for the prestigious LVMH prize and this season she showed back in London as part of Fashion East. She is really on a roll! I loved the tonal colour palette (lemon again!) and she obviously is very adept at draping. One to watch.
Gosha Rubchinskiy
Yes, yes, yes. I'm also a big Gosha fan. He is most definitely an influencer. This collection was a brand collaboration with Adidas and he showed it in Kaliningrad with all Russian models. He is keen to show Russia as it is today, to the world. He showed 28 well styled looks exploring the sportswear, suiting and military combinations. Each look contained at least one item that anyone of us would wear (including the Stephen Jones headwear) but it is distinctively Gosha.
Gypsy Sport
When I first fell for Gypsy Sport, it was a small collection of uni-sex pieces all shown on boys from Harlem. Designer Rio Uribe has more recently added more femme pieces to the collection but I actually prefer everything he does on men or androgynous models. It seems to say more. This was a powerful collection in message and attitude but also funny and fun. Loads of tie-dye, velvet and crochet it took me back to 90's bush doofs. In a good way.
Jil Sander
I have a soft spot for Jil Sander, from the JIL days and the RAF days. They have no name designer at their helm at the moment and I have to say that this collection was not as strong. It was kind of whispering the Jil Sander name rather than moving forward with it. But...I did love these looks. They have the JS crispness and sophistication.
J.W. Anderson
I'm such a big JW fan that I can't even speak about the collection. J.W. Anderson started as a menswear collection back in 2008 and we were the first store in Australia to stock some of his amazing pieces. Since the addition of his women's line, incredible growth and his work now at Loewe you might have expected him to commercialise or to have some misses. Not this guy.
Lemaire
If you like to have beautiful pieces in your wardrobe that are sophisticated but also incredibly modern, Christophe Lemaire is your guy. He's my guy too. Every piece, every look immaculately finished. His trousers were particularly fine in this collection but I just love this warm colour palette. Beautiful.
Loewe by J.W. Anderson
I can't even comprehend how genius this collection is but even more genius is the transformation Jonathan Anderson has given Loewe. It's a new generation for the brand. So many "want" accessories (trumpet earring please) and each look so new and inventive that I had to go back over it a few times to learn it and enjoy it.
Louis Vuitton
Generally lots of great looks under the helm of Kim Jones but I particular love these ones highlighting the pyjama shirting with the 1930's inspired prints. I also love the irony of the Supreme collaboration. Who would have thought.
Maison Margiela
As with many shows, I didn't love this collection all the way through but the mood really captures the Margiela spirit. It feels like it's not trying too hard but there are some strong ideas there that stay with you - the cropped leather pants (particularly in red), the layered gold velvet leggings, the tobacco velour zip top, the patched leather jacket, the Prince of Wales check suit, the gold velvet 3/4 coat. It's all carried off with a bohemian edge and a punk spirit.
Marni
This was the first collection for Marni by Fracesco Risso and again I wasn't sold on the whole collection, but I was so taken with these looks that I couldn't go past them. More big pants and pyjamas but the colour combinations and styling are so kitsch and very Marni. It will be interesting to see his progression.
Martine Rose
Inspired by bankers, office workers and bus drivers Martine Rose re-imagined the details of these "uniforms" and presented one of the edgiest shows of the season. Every detail has been considered from awkward colour combinations to tie pins and those Phil Oakey haircuts give them all such a great, electro attitude.
Neil Barrett
The man that kick started Prada Menswear, Neil Barrett established his own line back in 1999. It is always dripping with luxury through his textiles and make. I love this mix of traditional with sportswear which is kind of 1999 but that's ok.
Orley
Hats off to Orley for nailing their collection in only 14 looks. Again plaids, stripes, velvet and quilting featured with brown leading the colour palette of sophisticated combinations. I can imagine these 14 looks slipping in to a magazine editorial of "your perfect winter wardrobe". Well done.
Raf Simons
I am biased. I will fall for pretty much anything he does. This collection sent topical messages through his clever knits and even more clever "packing tape" accessories, finished beautifully with stunning coats and the perfect man-chokers.
Sunnei
Based in Italy and barely 3 years old, Sunnei are putting together well rounded and energized collections for such a young brand. My favourite look in the whole collection is the incredible suit on the end but joined by the baggy denims, rugby stripes and pyjama layering, the collection covers forward trends in a very digestible way. Love it.
Telfar
Telfar paved the way for unisex pieces and inclusive attitudes long before it became mainstream press. I love his motivation and his clothes and I love these ice-creamy, super wearable pieces.
Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner shows off the style and skills that earned her the 2016 LVMH prize. These incredible suits in luxe Prince of Wales checks and houndstooth were only outdone by her superb footwear and of the course those hats.
Hope you enjoyed it.
Let me know your favourites.
All of these images are from vogue.com where you can see the full shows.
I'll get back to you shortly with my thoughts on the women's shows.
Thea X
Thea Basiliou
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